Travels Along the Edge:
40 Ultimate Adventures for the Modern Nomad
From Crossing the Sahara to Bicycling Through Vietnam
by David Noland

Likoma Island is the larger of two small islands situated in the far north of Lake Malawi, on the east of the Lake and very close to the Mozambique coastline. To visit the island is to step back in time. Just 17 square kilometres in size, with one small dirt road and two vehicles, the local people survive largely by fishing, and farming rice and cassava. The island has hundreds of huge baobab trees and a number of glorious sandy beaches and rocky coves. The waters are crystal clear throughout the year and the diving and snorkeling is among the best in Lake Malawi

Kaya Mawa Lodge is situated on the south-western tip of the Island at the head of a crescent-shaped bay, surrounded by mango trees and ancient baobabs. Translated as “Maybe tomorrow” in the local Tonga dialect, the lodge uses the stunning natural surroundings of beach, rock, island and lake to create a lodge of unique character, imagination and very special ambience. With no machinery available on the island, Kaya Mawa Lodge was built entirely by hand, in partnership with the local community.

The stunning setting of the lodge and the unique comfort of the rooms means that many guests choose to make relaxation their main activity, but enough activities are on offer to keep guests busy. Scuba (including Padi diving courses), snorkeling, swimming, sailing and visits to the local villages are part of the experience. Day trips to Mozambique can be arranged. Access is by air or by boat.

Kaya Mawa has several mountain bikes that guests may use to explore the island. A round-the-island bike trip, with picnic lunch, has been popular with guests who are fit and enjoy getting out and seeing more of the island's. For those who are a tad too ambitious on setting out, the few vehicles on the island are more than happy to throw the bikes in the back and give you a lift back to Kaya Mawa or perhaps down to the Hot Coconut, a vibrant & happening bar in town which is popular with the locals and tourists who come to Likoma as an opportunity to enjoy some Malawi music and ice cold drinks.

Keen fisherman are thrilled to be able to spend their mornings fishing straight outside their chalet. At Kaya Mawa you can fish from the many bridges around the lodge for Chambo, Malawi's national fish, which the kitchen does with a lovely white wine sauce. For those looking for the bigger fish, Kampango (or commonly called Catfish), may be caught in the deeper waters. Lake fishing excursions are available for 1/2-hour up to a full day depending on what you fancy. The Kampango can be cooked many ways although the Kaya Mawa specialty, which is loved by all and even covered in South Africa's Elle magazine, is the Indian Fish Soup.

The Likoma Cathedral is a huge cathedral standing on the slopes of a mountain on an island in the middle of Lake Malawi. The cathedral is dedicated to Saint Peter, whose statue faces the lake, holding the keys in his hands while a big lock lies closed at his feet.

The island is called Likoma, which means beautiful, from "Silikoma" or "Sweet Land", but the site where the Cathedral is built is known as Chipyela, a name which bears no relation to beauty. The word means "place of burning", and it was here that the first missionaries witnessed witches being burnt at the stake.

The first European to have reached Likoma Island is believed to be Elton, who landed there in 1877. Like many other European explorers of his time, he spelled it incorrectly as "Dikoma." Elton had sailed there to meet Dr. David Livingstone, but he had missed him, for Livingstone had landed on Chizumulu, the only other island worthy of a name on Lake Malawi, which lies nine miles west of Likoma Island.

The foundation stone of Saint Peter's Cathedral was laid by Bishop Trower on January 27, 1903, and it was dedicated by the same bishop on September 29, 1905. The bishop had expected the work of building the cathedral to be finished by September 1905; however, the difficulty in transporting the material from the mainland to the island, coupled with delays in obtaining other material from overseas such as the colored glasses for the windows, delayed the work. But the Bishop had to dedicate the unfinished Cathedral, for at this time the Lady Chapel, the Chapter house and other outer buildings had not been built yet. Mills wrote in 1910: "Now, in 1910, this great work is nearing completion… The Cathedral will not be consecrated till it is finished."

The Cathedral was finished the following year, and was consecrated by Bishop Thomas Crowther Fisher on November 14, 1911.

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